The War Between Hair Texture and Curl Pattern

Often, I see the girls trying to understand their hair better with curl typing

You know, the type 4's, 3C's and more... However, only identifying this part of your hair leaves out other information that is necessary to truly knowing your hair. Let's first start at texture! I've heard the term texture used to describe adding layers, curls, or simply having a kink or wave within your hair. While this can be valid as well, the true definition of texture is "The diameter of each individual hair strand." There are three main types of texture: fine, medium, and coarse. Fine hair has the smallest diameter, easier to manipulate, and is typically very fragile and thin. Whereas coarse hair has the thickest diameter and more resistant to manipulation. This type can feel very rough and bumpy throughout the entirety of the strand. Lastly, we have Medium texture, which is described exactly how it sounds- a perfect medium between fine and coarse. Sort of like Goldilocks and the Three Bear's porridge, "Not too hot, not too cold."

Why would we need to know texture at all???

Hair texture can tell us the cuticle to cortex ratio. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft. It's fish scale like layer(s) are the first combat of protection for your medulla and cortex. Fine hair having the most layered cuticle to makeup for it's thinner cortex. Yet, coarse hair has a thinner cuticle layer, because the strength in it's cortex is strong enough to withstand more impact. The Cortex is the "body," where all the strength and elasticity lives. Understanding this concept will allow us to understand how much physical and chemical manipulation the hair can take. So where does that leave hair typing? Well, first we have to understand hair typing's real definition and origins.

Curl types fall into the group of hair patterns

Which defines the shape of your hair strands. Typically classified with a hair typing chart created by Andre Walker consisting of a scale of 4 hair types ranging from 1-4, type A through C. Today, we'll simplify them into four categories: Straight, Wavy, Curly and Coily. These hair patterns are still important to keep in your pocket, because they can help indicate the amount of elasticity and moisture the hair is able to retain.

The tighter the curl pattern, the less elasticity and moisture it can retain. Each bend of the curl creates "weaker," spots in the hair that can cause breakage and dryness without proper care. Coily hair has struggles with retaining moisture and elasticity the most, meaning it is the most sensitive hair pattern, contrary to popular belief. Let's recap to compare.

Texture is defined as the diameter of each hair strand

By the cuticle to cortex ratio. Whereas hair pattern is describing the shape of each hair strand that will indicate how much elasticity and moisture it may retain. Texture can be categorized into three groups called fine. medium and coarse. With fine being the most fragile and coarse being the opposite. While, hair pattern is categorized into four groups known as straight, wavy, curly, and coily. Coily hair can struggle more with the retention of moisture and elasticity versus their counterparts on the straighter or wavier side. It is important to note that you can have multiple hair patterns and textures throughout your head naturally or due to manipulation. The best way to work with diverse hair types is to have a great cut that supports all the various lengths. As well as either treating your entire head according to your dominant curly pattern or even better alter your routine to target the different curl patterns through the head. For example if your curls are looser in the nape, than the are the crown, try to go light on the product amount in the back of your head versus the crown. Or if your texture is coarser in the crown vs the nape, try to use more lightly moisturizing products on the crown to avoid build up, and maybe a light weight gel to add elongation.

Now that you know the differences between texture and porosity, you should be two steps further to understanding your hair's ebbs and flows! Do you know your hair's texture or pattern?