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- Why Morpho Hair University?
Cosmetologist, Salon Owner, Blogger. Welcome to my world! To understand Morpho Hair University We first have to to understand each word’s definition and representation. We’ll start with Morpho, which is a breed of beautiful, iridescent butterflies that I chose to represent my first salon business at 23, ‘Morpho Hair Omaha.” Here, is where I cater to curly crowns, teaching my clients the simplicity and beauty in creating routines that actually work with your hair. I specifically chose the word Morpho to represent who I was then, and also who I was becoming slowly, but surely. The spiritual definition behind Morpho butterflies is said to symbolize transformation, personal growth, healing, and new beginnings. What better way to tie in everything I do for others at the salon that this? At 23 I began my entrepreneurship journey as a little caterpillar- anxious, just trying to survive by trusting my instincts. Even though it felt like I was always doing the opposite, I’d hope that my business would allow me the space to cocoon and transform just like the butterfly. That it it did, I needed Morpho as much as it needed me, if not more. Though, many lessons on trusting my instincts, being patient, and trusting my own timing was learned, I constantly find myself yearning for more. I’ve been in the hair industry since 2019 I always knew that there was a calling that rang from beyond the chair. That’s where the, “University,” comes in. If you know me, I’m an astrology, astronomy obsessed girly, so creating my own universe was bound to come into fruition. Morpho Hair University is my official website that hosts everything new and old that I’ve created for myself this far. My booking site for my clients, hair tips and tricks for all, and now my first blog, “Beyond the Highlights,” for me. At first, the blog was just going to be about hair tips and ticks, beauty history and controversial topics, but like I said earlier, I yearned for more beyond the chair. I’ve been working on and off on the site for about 2 years now, uncertain about what I truly wanted to contribute to its world. Then, some time last year, I got a reiki reading In it was a mouthful, but I was searching for clarification of my career’s direction. She said that I’d not only teach what I know about curly hair, but I’d also coach other beauty professionals on how to protect their energy while being in so many people’s auras. Funny thing about it is I also need to learn this for myself. We as beauty professionals work directly and what I’m learning to be called the “crown chakra,” which is located at the top of the head. This means we have direct access to how people think, feel and understand themselves. After connecting with so many different energies this can weigh heavy on our own crown chakras and bodies too. I feel that weight, and often don’t know what to do or where to turn to, to balance it. My journey of pouring into this website will also be a journey of rebuilding who I’ve known myself to be while protecting the energy that's created from it. The intent is to teach you how to do the same for yourself in whichever journey you choose. Not from a place that’s perfect or experienced, but through leading in my own journey, first starting here on Morpho University. Thank you for coming into my universe, please stay for as long as you need to!
- Are you a Curly Hairstylist?
Hi! I'm Chelle ;) Who Should I Become? For a long time... I aspired I'd become an obstetrician. I wanted to help deliver babies and was dead set on this idea for all 4 years of high school. Then, senior year hit me like a wall . Between makeup making millions and depression, I wasn't sure of much when it came to my future. After I graduated, I realized I didn't need to decide something so soon if I didn't have my heart in it. So, I worked at various mundane jobs. Still, knowing my purpose was needed somewhere else. My mother suggested cosmetology school, and, funny enough, I never even thought about it until she brought it up. I used to spend hours locked in the bathroom, meticulously slicking, sewing, gluing every strand together. I learned out of curiosity mainly, but as a black girl with tight curly hair in the middle of Nebraska, I learned out of necessity. So, it only made sense for me to go to school to learn about my curls. Missing Piece While I attended school... I went by the name Shawn. In our school if your name was too similar to someone else's you could choose a "fake" name. I loved this, I got to choose a new name, and a new start at life. After a year of being lost and confused on what I wanted to do, I finally knew what lit me up. Hair extensions, curly hair and fashion colors was on the top of my list to learn about. I wanted to be a stylist who knew and did it all. Especially with curly hair, if I was going to be a hairstylist and curly hair is a hair type, then I would need to learn curly hair. I found damn near everything in hair school- my purpose, ambition, and vision. Everything I'm thankful for to this day, but there was an essential piece missing. I went to school to learn about hair and that I did. Everyone's hair, but my own. Hair school Chelle via 2019 The truth is I never learned how to care for my natural hair until I cared for others. This took years of trial and error to achieve later on in my career. After 15 months in hair school being told we didn't need to learn about curly hair specifically, overhearing "I'll never do those people's hair anyways,"and about a couple years of working in salons whose products wouldn't work for my curls, it become almost mandatory that I understand curly hair. Imposter Syndrome It all started with... the simple question of "Do you want to leave curly?" Most clients were taken-aback from the suggestion. Some didn't even know they had curls at all, "just frizz". I barely knew anything about the curls on my own head, but I learned steadily about other people's curls through my very patient clients. Before this question I was just a baby stylist trying everything and most importantly- trying hard not to f' it up. Soon, I was getting the hang of it, just barely grasping the knowledge of my client's hair. At this point, I was given the title of "Curly Hair Stylist." I felt honored that someone would even consider me for the roll, but on the other hand I felt immense imposter syndrome. During this time what made me feel like an imposter was in the name itself. "Curly," then, hair stylist. If you remember from earlier, the point of learning curly hair is because curly hair is hair and I'm a hairstylist. The title made me feel othered similar to how I felt in cosmetology school. I wasn't styling, cutting and coloring people's hair in their natural form to be a Curly and then stylist. I did it because I'm a hairstylist just like anyone else. I felt our clients deserve the option to be styled natural just as much as any other style. The option I am very familiar with never receiving. In Conclusion The next couple of years... I'd continue my trial and error, then succeed my way into my current business, Morpho. A safe place for curly girls to be heard and understood. Through self education, failure, and free haircuts, I've learned how to love my own curly hair. The title is still a heavy weight to carry, especially at times when I think I'm not the right person to do it. However, that weight pushed me to bridge the gap with education on all hair patterns that's been missing in our industry and for me. I aim to normalize curly hair education with every cosmetologist because curly hair is hair and we are ALL hair stylists. Maybe one day every young lady slicking, gluing, and guessing circles around her hair can find a safe place to thrive like the one I've created.
- The War Between Hair Texture and Curl Pattern
Often, I see the girls trying to understand their hair better with curl typing You know, the type 4's, 3C's and more... However, only identifying this part of your hair leaves out other information that is necessary to truly knowing your hair. Let's first start at texture! I've heard the term texture used to describe adding layers, curls, or simply having a kink or wave within your hair. While this can be valid as well, the true definition of texture is "The diameter of each individual hair strand." There are three main types of texture: fine, medium, and coarse. Fine hair has the smallest diameter, easier to manipulate, and is typically very fragile and thin. Whereas coarse hair has the thickest diameter and more resistant to manipulation. This type can feel very rough and bumpy throughout the entirety of the strand. Lastly, we have Medium texture, which is described exactly how it sounds- a perfect medium between fine and coarse. Sort of like Goldilocks and the Three Bear's porridge, "Not too hot, not too cold." Why would we need to know texture at all??? Hair texture can tell us the cuticle to cortex ratio. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft. It's fish scale like layer(s) are the first combat of protection for your medulla and cortex. Fine hair having the most layered cuticle to makeup for it's thinner cortex. Yet, coarse hair has a thinner cuticle layer, because the strength in it's cortex is strong enough to withstand more impact. The Cortex is the "body," where all the strength and elasticity lives. Understanding this concept will allow us to understand how much physical and chemical manipulation the hair can take. So where does that leave hair typing? Well, first we have to understand hair typing's real definition and origins. Curl types fall into the group of hair patterns Which defines the shape of your hair strands. Typically classified with a hair typing chart created by Andre Walker consisting of a scale of 4 hair types ranging from 1-4, type A through C. Today, we'll simplify them into four categories: Straight, Wavy, Curly and Coily. These hair patterns are still important to keep in your pocket, because they can help indicate the amount of elasticity and moisture the hair is able to retain. The tighter the curl pattern, the less elasticity and moisture it can retain. Each bend of the curl creates "weaker," spots in the hair that can cause breakage and dryness without proper care. Coily hair has struggles with retaining moisture and elasticity the most, meaning it is the most sensitive hair pattern, contrary to popular belief. Let's recap to compare. Texture is defined as the diameter of each hair strand By the cuticle to cortex ratio. Whereas hair pattern is describing the shape of each hair strand that will indicate how much elasticity and moisture it may retain. Texture can be categorized into three groups called fine. medium and coarse. With fine being the most fragile and coarse being the opposite. While, hair pattern is categorized into four groups known as straight, wavy, curly, and coily. Coily hair can struggle more with the retention of moisture and elasticity versus their counterparts on the straighter or wavier side. It is important to note that you can have multiple hair patterns and textures throughout your head naturally or due to manipulation. The best way to work with diverse hair types is to have a great cut that supports all the various lengths. As well as either treating your entire head according to your dominant curly pattern or even better alter your routine to target the different curl patterns through the head. For example if your curls are looser in the nape, than the are the crown, try to go light on the product amount in the back of your head versus the crown. Or if your texture is coarser in the crown vs the nape, try to use more lightly moisturizing products on the crown to avoid build up, and maybe a light weight gel to add elongation. Now that you know the differences between texture and porosity, you should be two steps further to understanding your hair's ebbs and flows! Do you know your hair's texture or pattern?
- I Can't Do What With My Hair?
Diana Ross 1969 Since high school, I was let free to roam in the knots of my own hair To create whatever I could with the little knowledge of my hair I had. As an African American woman, I noticed in our culture it is MANDATORY to keep our hair looking laid or presentable no matter what age. We do this for all kinds of reasons - protection, assimilation (also for our protection), pride, and always creativity. So no doubt, our mothers had us in the beauty salon getting our hair whipped up in braids, presses, and twisties before most of us could count to 10. Or you got the infamous creamy crack if your hair was too thick or unmanageable for your stylist or parent. There begins to form our first contact with our hair and what that should look like for a black girl. Not soon after, we all get to the age of 13-14 and our mothers have given up. Salon costs for two, even when one is half your size, still can cost more than your groceries. As well as parental figures in general not having the knowledge of how to work with their child's hair no matter the state of it due to no one teaching them. So, in return, most black girls go through their special stage of awkwardness called, "we got hair at home." If you're still confused by the term creamy crack Say thank you to your mother. In all seriousness, it's a term used within the black community referring to relaxers. Relaxers are not limited to, but pretty popular in our community and is a tool used to create straighter or smoother looks with the hair. They're not inherently bad in nature these days, in fact, it's an amazing medium for hair artists to create infamous pixie cuts and finger waves that are more manageable in the curl's "relaxed" state. So why do I thank God if you don't know what they are? Well, relaxers were introduced to us at very young ages, anywhere between 8 to 10 years old. Before we ever got the chance to connect with our hair at its purest form, it was permanently and chemically altered for manageability and presentableness. Mainly, to benefit everyone else but us while unknowingly putting us at the risk of certain cancers from the chemicals. I do not fault our parents or even the stylists at the time, they did what they knew was best for everyone. Better yet, they knew what was best from which they were taught. Black women have lineages of teachings of manageability and presentableness when it comes to their hair due to racism, time or resource constraints. But what does this teach young girls who are just getting to know their hair, and even deeper, themselves? The belief passed down that our hair needs to be managed and presentable At all times causes a broken relationship with our hair from the earliest of ages. Many conversations still continue on what is right or wrong with how black women choose to wear their hair today. Typically toggling between the styles of natural or straight. However, either way would not matter if the relationship you have with said straight or natural hair is one that barely exists. Our culture has thrived many years cultivating the most original hairstyles that trend every time. From braided beehives, natural fros, finger waves, and more our hair has proven its unique flexibility and beauty no matter what form it takes. This is what we should teach and show our young girls. That our hair is a canvas to paint anything we're capable of envisioning, not an obstacle to tame, manage, and please everyone else. The battle between straight and natural hair within our community is a battle we will always lose if we do not realize that anyone forcing us in a box of any kind is a slight to the freedom and flexibility our hair provides. In the late 1700s, Creole women in Louisiana Were forced by law to cover up their hair with tignons to refract excess attention from their dress. Towards the early 1800s, many women still chose to wear their scarves in protest, they had found power in expressing their culture and creativity through the same tool that was meant to silence them. Not too long after, the law was lifted, yet most still chose to wear their tignons. Let this reflect a lesson we all need to learn, the only right way to wear our hair is the way we decide we want to. No amount of limitations, restrictions, or fears have stopped the black woman from finding ways to express her individuality. Our hair does not have to be manageable or presentable to exist in this world. Nor does it have to fit into a box labeled "black." So, wear your hair the way that makes you feel good inside and out, as long as you do the internal work to make it your choice.
- What Kind of Plant is Your Hair?
Do You Keep Killing Your Plants? I am ashamed to say, I’ve never been a great mother… Plant mother, that is. I always end up killing them no matter what I do. More water equals wilted, less water equals burned, and so on and so forth. I could never figure out the perfect balance of hydration for my babies to THRIVE! Funny enough, it was like that with my hair for years—wilted and burned. The struggle to play the balancing act between the proper amount of hydration was a game I was losing at. That is until I understood porosity. Just like plants, all of our hair has a unique formula for receiving and retaining moisture. Depending on your hair makeup, too much water or lack thereof may leave your hair wilted and dried just like our plants. Allow me to break it down for you! Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. The categories are high, normal, and low. High porosity acts like a sponge to hydration, but loses it just as quickly as it gains it. Meanwhile, low porosity struggles to accept moisture, and water sits on top of the hair like water droplets on spiderwebs. Putting these findings together can help you understand your hair’s specific needs, especially when it comes to moisturizing for the best hydrated curls! Since our hair is just like plants, I chose some cool plants that need similar care as our various porosity types. That way, we can keep our hair and plants thriving. Lilacs and High Porosity The first plant we'll discuss is the Lilac plant. This beauty loves lots of moisture, but too much water can cause the plant to wilt and become soggy, similar to high porosity hair. High porosity is hydrophilic, meaning it also loves water. However, over-moisturizing with conditioners, shampooing, or getting it wet too often will cause the hair to become limp and lifeless, eventually breaking off. Just like Lilac, you will "water" or shampoo your hair 1-2 times per week. The picture located on the right of the Lilac plant represents the amount of water your hair likes to absorb. In this example photo, high porosity hair absorbs abundant amounts of water very easily, causing the hair to fall to the bottom. This is a great experiment to find your porosity if it's challenging to know from previous routines. Snake Plants and Low Porosity Then we have the Snake Plant, everyone's favorite because if you forget to water it for a few days, it will still be alive and well! Since it's easy at retaining moisture and tends to keep it for a long period of time, Snake Plants only need a light amount of moisture just like Low porosity. Keeping your ingredients light with high impact moisture is amazing for this hair type, because the molecules will be small enough to penetrate the hair strand. Once the moisture is in, it can stay there for a good amount of time. I recommend washing your hair and watering your Snake Plant every 7-10 days. The picture located on the right of the Snake Plant represents the amount of water your hair likes to absorb. In this example photo, low porosity struggles initially to absorb moisture, causing the hair to stay afloat. Pothos Plants and Normal Porosity Lastly, the Pothos plant. It thrives with moderate, routine moisture. Pothos can go up to 1-2 weeks without needing to be watered. It requires just enough water to keep it hydrated due to its easy adaptation to wet and dry climates, like normal porosity. I recommend washing your hair every 1-2 weeks for the best results. The picture located to the right of the Pothos plant represents the amount of water your hair likes to absorb. In this example photo, normal porosity hair absorbs and retains water steadily, resulting in the hair strand staying in the middle of the glass of water. Conclusion Plants are the best way to understand our hair needs, because our hair - just like plants - communicates what it needs all the time, all we have to do is listen. So, if your hair is lifeless and dry or limp, try to reflect on what you're currently doing to it. Are you giving your hair enough hydration, getting it wet too often, or constantly guessing as you go? There is another way; everyone is capable of achieving their version of healthy, hydrated hair, and the best way to start is by recognizing your hair's porosity. What porosity are you?
- I Think I Love My Hair?
... To the conflicted curly girl within us all just trying to live. The first time I saw someone with my hair pattern Rock the big screen was when I was introduced to Issa Rae's Awkward Black Girl series on YouTube. There she was, a dark-skinned, short kinky-haired beauty freestyling her quirky, on-the-fly rhymes to herself. I resonated deeply and quickly with her traits. A few long years later, she comes out with the show Insecure, a sitcom surrounding the highs and lows of being a late twenty-something to early/mid-30-year-old, just trying to make it somewhere in life. In every episode, Issa's hair progresses with the seasons. First, starting with a cute TWA (teeny weenie afro), then moving up to classy and innovative updos all while staying natural, I had never seen representation like this before. Not just the natural hair portion, but the versatility in the styles as well. Around the time of the show, the most I saw done with our hair on screen was anything straight or some type of extension. Which I still love, but at the time I never knew what I was missing. Her ability to express a sexy, classy, or even adventurous style surprisingly complemented the awkwardness of her character. Even though Issa was always showcasing a woman who barely had her life together, and a personality that came off naive and childish, this didn't mean her hair had to be presented in the same way. Often you see in media black women's hair Reflecting their success and status in the world. Always, the super successful doctor with straight presses, or the well-known socialite with bone-straight extensions reaching past her waist. These examples are far more common to signal success in life, dating, and health for a black woman's character. To play the devil's advocate, there are times when black women are allowed to wear their natural hair. Three rules, though—first, your curls need to be looser than a type 4, you have to be racially ambiguous, or your character has to fit into a stereotypical box. Shows from the early 2000s and movies from the Blaxploitation era prove just that. Black actresses are only allowed to have short, kinky, or coily hair when their characters are meant to be seen as struggling and undesirable. I wondered in the recent past why we as black women struggle with feeling beautiful in our natural hair. Not because I feel it's the only way we should wear it, but because it's one of our most unique features. Hair that defies gravity should be given the same amount of admiration, right? When did we circle back to our natural hair coming second in priority to fun temporary styles? Here are some takes I've seen: It makes us look childish, instead of sexy Doesn't fit with chosen aesthetic/style Touching back on the show Insecure, if you have seen the show the entire series refutes these claims. Issa changes her hair often even when she's broke or busy. With each updo or wash and go she secures very attractive men (cough, cough, Daniel) who don't second guess her beauty when they see her kinks throughout the season. When she had hair barely past her ears styled in a pixie, her character was still able to tap into the sexiness and confidence of her inner self when necessary. So with that being said Why do we continue to believe the narrative that our shrunken curls cannot make us feel desirable, confident, or grown and sexy? I ask this question to myself as well, even as a curly hairstylist I am not exempt from the insecurities I have about my tight, type four hair. I am not a stranger to hot combs, quickweaves, lace fronts, and long silky extensions. For the majority of my life this is how I've chosen to wear my hair. Yes, for the beauty of a cute style, but digging deeper it was because I hated the way my hair looked on me. More specifically , I hated the way I was viewed in society when I wore it out and natural. When I had long, sleek weaves the attention I got was from everyone, including black men, was positive and abundant. Versus when I wore my natural hair, the lack of acknowledgment of my existence translated to me feeling invisible. In middle school, boys would tease us for our natural puffs comparing them to things like the head of broccoli or stubby bushes. Up until very recently, there were not a lot of safe spaces for kinky-haired girls to wear their hair out radically without the constant reminder that us natural will never be enough for the rest of the world. This is what I believe created the result of hating my hair. For a black woman, 80% of our lives will be trying to find a way to be accepted for our survival. So that means if jobs, potential partners, social settings, and more require an unspoken preference for our hair to be anything but kinky, then more than likely we will assimilate to protect ourselves socially. However, shows like Insecure give me hope Issa felt more than a fictional character to me. She represented a future where our hair is an extension of our creativity and individuality, instead of a prison with limited space to choose. She showed me that the reflected success and aesthetic we're craving is not cultivated in our hair, but originates within being yourself. These days I allow myself to indulge in all types of hairstyles despite what the world feels is best for me. Like India Arie sang, "I am not my hair" and however I choose to wear my crown will not lessen or increase my value to this world. Sidenote- I LOVE YOU ISSA xoxo






